utah men's wedding style, a few details:

socks and shoes:
there is no rule i would apply to socks. wear nice dress socks, crazy patterned socks, or go sockless - pretty much anything goes. it's hard to mess up on socks, but note that the general rule is that if you are going to match your socks to anything, match them to your trouser, not your shoes (unless your shoes and suit are black).

below are a few sock options, and some good shoes as well. the important thing to notice about the shoes is that they have a slim sole - not rubber - and the upper is polished and exceptionally clean.

boutonniere: 
should not be wider than the lapel. it looks a lot better than the massive, curving, blossoming, emasculating, mini bouquets i've seen pinned to some guys. proportions is the underlying reason for this rule.

if there's anything else, i have forgotten. feel free to remind me or ask. cheers.

the groom, 4:

fourth, the tux.
a tuxedo is the epitome of classic male formal style - to wear it correctly, ditch the stuffy, boxy types and go for a couple of important updates. here's a few general guide-lines to wearing a tuxedo:

1. do not rent a tux
2. fit and proportions will make or break the look. the tux should fit as well as your slim suits, and the lapels, shirt collar, and tie should all be proportionate. basically, this means that tailoring is non-negotiable, and broad floppy bow ties are out of the question.
3. do not wear neon green/pink/blue/orange vest and tie combos. these just cannot be pulled off. if your bride-to-be has a color palette picked out, just wear black, white, and maybe grays. if colors are essential, use colors from the same color family, like the midnight blue tux at the bottom on ryan gosling in stead of a neon blue vest and tie.
4. do not wear patent leather shoes. even the real ones that run for over a thousand dollars look cheap - the rental shoes at tux shops with rubber bottoms look much worse. brogues don't go well with tuxes either, so opt for simple black leather-bottomed shoes, probably cap toe oxfords, and polish them with a vengeance. 
5. finally, current men's style isn't quite as dictated; if you don't feel ok with the classic black and white, mix in a few muted colors like the grey bow tie or pocket square below.

white dinner jacket - very james bond. wrong size white jacket with an un-tailored look and slicked back hair - very prom. know the difference. the picture below on the left is from a tux rental catalog and fits the guy poorly. note how much better the tux on the right looks, it fits the guy both in personality and in correct tailoring.

the classic black tux with a black bow tie can look sharp, but most rental tuxes are boxy and baggy. they need to be, because every guy fits different and a rental shop needs to account for all sizes and preferences. don't fall into that trap - there's no reason to rent when the black tux below on the right from topman costs $360. the rental tux on the left doesn't look bad, it just doesn't look near as sharp.

a tux really is iconic men's formal wear. it just needs to be done right, and that takes some finess.

the groom, 3:

third, a dark suit (my personal favorite).
this one is as sharp as it gets while avoiding a tux. the suit should be dark, and if not wool, the fabric should not wrinkle very easily. here, the clean lines and lack of details make the statement. a crisp, white, semi-spread collar shirt with french cuffs is the standard - don't stray from that.  if you want a pocket square, it should be just as crisp, and just as white as the shirt - consider running an iron over it after it's been folded. most importantly, the suit should be trim and tailored. slimmed out sleeves, high armholes, narrow and tapered legs, etc - you should not be able to successfully throw a football while wearing a correctly fitting suit.

a dark suit can be killer in the summer; the heat will not be your friend. a light-weight wool will bode best, but know that if you plan to be outside, a dark suit will warm up quick. on the plus side, a nice, quality dark suit looks sharp and formal, even when compared to a well-tailored tuxedo.

the groom, 2:

second, the outdoor summer wedding. 
if you're going to be standing outside in the middle of july, and still want to look sharp after shaking hands for 3 hours, ditch the 3-season wool suit. cottons, khakis, and linens are the way to go. looking james bond-esque while sporting a lighter-colored cotton suit isn't easy, but certainly doable. stay away from accessories, wear nice leather-bottomed shoes, and part your hair. the two looks below spell it out great.

notice how the style in the pictures both above and below consist of literally two, maybe three, colors at most.  keeping the clothing and accessories simple help to keep the look sharp, and mature. also note that the shoes above are nice leather brogues, not fake shiny-plastic tux rental shoes. to pull off the summer wedding look, keep your suits light-weight and breathable, colors at a minimun, and accessories high quality and simple.

the groom, 1:

to start with: once again, don't rent a tux. that being restated, here's a few great groom options that depending on your own style and the style of the wedding, you should consider. in utah, weddings have their own culture, unique to this area. you can wear what you want, but remember this is a wedding, so whether you want to stand out or just look sharp, do it in the right way.

note: for anyone worried about the groomsman, consider this statement by josh thoreson, style editor at park & bond. when asked about the groomsman of his own wedding he explained: "I'm not compelling my guys to wear anything specific. I've just asked them to keep their attire in the same color as mine, and their groomsmen's gift will tie it all together. I think many modern wedding parties follow this kind of program, at least on the men's side." point being: if you like the idea of dressing better for your wedding, but are worried that it'll throw off everything by not matching the groomsman, know here and now that your groomsman don't have to wear the same thing, or match you perfectly, leave that to the bride and bridesmaids.

first, swank. 
this is the group that is comfortable standing out, revels in details, and commands the center of attention with casual ease. if you're feeling a little bolder for the big day, go for a seersucker suit with a cotton gingham pocket square, and a knit tie (above). or, try a brownish linen suit with bright red socks to offset the saddle shoes (below). either way, pay close attention to the following: going bold means that often you will have to spend more effort or money to make sure the fit is precise. if you don't, the look really won't come together, so don't cut corners.

note that if you're wearing saddle shoes and red socks, avoid too many patterns and flashy ties. with a seersucker suit like the one up top, the suit itself is the statement, so mute the tie, and wear a white shirt - not colored or patterned. don't get too many details competing for attention. 


overall, to nail the right look that stands out, stick to just a few statement pieces, keep everything well tailored, and you'll be the bell of the ball. almost.

taking back the wedding, groom's rules:

starting with the groom, a few rules explaining the major dos and don't of mens style at a utah wedding:

1. do n-o-t rent a tux. they are not saving you money (i'll show you how). as they will never ever be tailored correctly, they are never ever worth your money

2. fit is king. this would be rule number one as always, but my rage towards tux rentals is just too great. fit is still basically tied for the the most important rule - especially in your tuxedo or suit, but also your shirt and everything else you may wear.

3. remember the rule of 51. when you are married, i unrelentingly believe that a happy, lasting marriage comes from giving 100% of yourself to your wife, and vice versa. however, in your style, be at least 51% you. remember, she chose to marry you, so you must be an alright guy. what you wear must reflect you, not just the wedding or a few color swatches. for the most part, this will be her big day - not yours - but you are the groom and you'd better look sharper than any other guy in attendance.

4. remember the rule of 49. i acquiesce that there will most likely be colors and themes at your wedding, and that's why the next rule is 49 - where the last 49% of your style reflects you fitting into the event. although, not quite as important as looking like you, fitting into your wedding is still just as crucial as dressing appropriately for whatever the occasion may be. you don't have to match the exact wedding colors - anyone telling you so has overstepped their bounds - and it even sometimes looks cheap when you do, but you do have to stay within the right color families and reflect the feel of the wedding.

5. know your options. that's up next.

utah men's wedding style:

here in utah, weddings are basically synonymous with summertime. nearly every weekend there's a backyard with lights, a table of cheeses, and a pair of friends tying the knot somewhere near by. sadly for men's style, weddings here are also synonymous with over-sized tuxedoes and guys that are matched to their sweetheart's bouquet of flowers. in recent years, the truth is that most men have shed their final inches of wedding day territory - the clothes they wear - to the higher powers of color schemes, laziness, or just plain ignorance. time to take back the wedding, gents.

i found a novel quote from put.this.on that sums it up below:

for men who aren’t confident in their style, the question of what to wear on their wedding day can be a source of tremendous discomfort and fear.  so much so that men often abdicate their one tiny bit of wedding day autonomy to their wives-to-be.  I say: stop.  don’t.  your fiancee does not know the answer, though she may think she does.  if she does think she does, your situation is even worse.  dress yourself.  like a man.

enough said. the next few post will be for grooms, groomsmen, and attendees alike.

question: funeral attire

a few answers to questions from some readers, email questions to laineuxbarbouze@gmail.com

up next, utah men's wedding style

what do i wear to a funeral?

recently, my dear old grandpa of 97 years old passed away, bless his heart. at his funeral, not one of his children or grand children were wearing the typical all-black funeral attire. everybody was dressed in colors and came to celebrate the long and excellent life of my excellent grandfather. funeral attire is sort of difficult, because local customs come heavily into play (for instance, when i lived in mexico, i learned that yellow is the customary color of mourning), since this is a utah men's style blog, we'll take it from that angle. here's a few key pointers:

dress nice. that means a tie, and just as important, a jacket. 

dress clean. no messy looks and rumpled shirts. use an iron. 

dress simple. colors are great, sometimes necessary, but this isn't the place for making statements either. keep your colors and patterns very simple and neat. i would say that a solid grey suit is king; pair it with a crisp white shirt and navy blue tie for a sharp and respectful look. 

un-accessorize. basically all you need is a watch, and if you have one, a wedding band. save your bold socks, pocket squares, and nifty tie bars for the dinner later with the family when everyone's telling about all the crazy things grandpa did - they aren't for funerals.

as my highly sartorially-inclined wife said when i asked her what i should wear for my grandpa's funeral, 'just not black, you don't celebrate someone's life with black.'

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question: going belt-less

a few answers to questions from some readers, email questions to laineuxbarbouze@gmail.com

is wearing a suit without a belt a style faux pas?

my best answer is 'no, unless'
today, i wore a suit with no belt and i'd like to think i looked fine - the trick is to go belt-less on purpose, not because you don't have a belt handy. the general rule is that less belt means more casual, but the bigger rule is to only wear one or two things that really stand out or you risk looking like you're trying too hard. if you have some detail like bold socks, or suede saddle shoes and a cotton suit, consider going belt-less to keep things in check.

in my opinion, this a great example of when not to wear a belt. the pocket circle, bold socks, white-bottomed loafers, and chambray shirt give this look plenty. here, no belt compliments the look by keeping things simple.

so no, you don't have to wear a belt, as is displayed above, unless the occasion calls for it like in a more formal setting. in truth, i almost never go without a belt, because even when you're trying for a more casual look, there's often a belt for that. instead of going without a belt, i would say sport a cotton webbing belt or woven leather for a more casual look. but never go belt-less if you want to look nice e.g. a formal dinner, job interview, or your wedding.
those are occasions where a slim shiny belt with polished shoes just frankly looks better.

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club collar:

the eton or club collar:
i keep seeing guys sporting club collared shirts in pictures and have no clue where to find a really good one. a club collar is just a collar whose points are rounded off. its a small feature that normally goes unnoticed, but with a trimmer tailored shirt, the club collar is a nice detail nodding back to its mid-1800's collegiate roots.

also called an eton, the club collar got its start when england's eton college wanted to update their uniforms. the new collar caught on quick, and after nearly going extinct a few times, it seems to have a steady footing recently in men's style. i think it all looks sporty with a tie and collar bar.

to pull it off: think collegiate or madmen style. its origins are in english college style and the greatest popularity after that was in the united states around the fifties - it looks great with a thick wool suit and collar bar, or under herringbone sports jacket. and if you find a good place to get a hold of one, please let me know.

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i would like a bronze arrow tie bar:

here's what i like about this:

the tie and collar are perfect widths, thin.
notice that the tie is a silk club tie, normally refined, but not too serious when covered in bicycles
textures - slick tie, rumbled oxford shirt, scruff
details - dark brown buttons, bicycled tie, and of course the brass arrow tie bar at jaunty angles

nothing at all stands out or competes for your attention. at a glance, this guy is just wearing a striped shirt and tie, you really don't notice anything until you start looking. all of the details are unique, but simple - classy.

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woolly beard:

how to find this site again: 

google "utah men's style" 

it should be the first result

photosymphosis:

a classy guy i know by the name of james has created this tumblr called photosymphosis. the idea is mostly simple - a song and a picture. the music comes from all sorts of nearly undefinable genres that have then mostly been remixed to mesh seamlessly with each other. the songs come hand-picked with some form of a visual representation of james' take on the song.

photosymphosis is a music blog by a musician, i think that's why i'm a fan. i'm noticing that there's lots of great music around here, or at least lots of people who know great music - and know how to play it. i suppose this is my small plug for the provo music scene.

some of my favorites from photosymphosis.com:

bibio - lover's carvings
mia - paper planes (beautiful small machines)
bon iver - skinny love (das kapital rerub)
lips - everything to me (adventure club dubstep remix)

rainy:

rainy spring style:
the past few days have been rainy, and cold. i've been plodding through my last semester's finals in a generally grey and cloudy mirth. here's a few things i wear that i don't have to think about - saves my thinking for figuring out more important things. consider these to be men's spring style for those rainy utah spring days:

waterproofed timberland earthkeepers (above). i waterproofed them myself along with a pair of chukkas (below) with some quoddy waterproofer wax. most of the time i'll go for the chukkas, but these earth keepers are solid, classic, and highly functional.

here's my chukka's - they're eastland's

and here's the waterproofer wax, made with real bear fat and beeswax - smells of pure manliness

next, a waxed canvas jacket or light parka. i don't even have a clue brand my waxed canvas jacket is, but the thing is literally bulletproof. nothing beats a lightweight jacket that sheds water for the spring time. i like something that gets the job done, but is easy to carry around if the weather warms back up. some of the best brands in my opinion are mountain hardwear, and marmot - they have the fit of an arc'teryx without the obscene price.

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contemporary suiting:

the gq guides to suits:
i just read this article, and this little excerpt explains contemporary suit-wearing perfectly. i have nothing to add to this explanation of what makes a killer, modern-looking suit. from the gq guide to suits:

"check out christoph waltz here and you'll see more than just a sharp-dressed man—you'll see a completely contemporary man. what's the secret? the trimness of the suit? sure. the elegance of the details? totally. but look a little closer and you'll notice what's not here: no aggressive plaids, no I'm-the-man pinstripes, no four-button jacket. instead, the message is smart, confident, thoroughly put together. he makes a statement by not making one—or at least looking as if he's not trying so hard to make one. like the best in modern design, his suit is simple and streamlined, perfectly crafted. that's the look you want."

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from brogues to sneaks:

dressing up with sneakers:
almost every guy has at some point or another considered sporting a suit or slacks with sneakers. for the most part, most of us even have a few tried and failed attempts - that's good, and now here's how to nail it.
first, a foreword: own a pair of solid shoes, i'm referring to leather-bottomed brogues/wingtips/cap-toes in black or dark brown. if you don't have a rock solid dress shoe, then stop reading here, and start reading here, because understanding the suit with sneakers look is understanding how to dress a suit down. you should know how to dress a suit up before learning how to dress it down for the same reason that you need to truly learn the rules before you can artfully break them.

here's the basics:
keep your sneakers clean and simple without a chunky sole, this has been stated before. as a man grows up, so should his style. to explain good sneakers for suits, i like this quote from an article by gq explaining the style commandments:

It’s fine to own crosstrainers and running shoes and hightops. but save them for the gym. when you’re on the street, keep your sneakers simple and classic. go for ones like stan smiths, jack purcells, and sambas. they work with everything, including suits.

next, the look should generally be informal (like the picture at the very top) - sneakers look great with cotton pique suits, sock-less, with the tie a bit loosened, and maybe topped off with a messier hairdo. you're wearing sneakers with a suit, so don't take yourself too seriously, it's ok for a few things to sit a bit off-kilter. in fact, it's essential to have at least one or two other things in your ensemble to be less formal in nature.

as always, consider your proportions and fit. the worst is for your sneakers to be swallowed up in a sea of pant folds, or for your trim and cut suit to be off balanced by some massive skate shoes or dirty worn out kicks. a simple shoe without a chunky sole is critical, and i know this is hard, but a shorter very trim and tapered trouser leg like the one above looks best and shows some sock (or lack thereof) to finish off the look. sport the sneakers with your suit, just remember to keep the look casual, taper and raise the hem of your trouser, and keep your shoes simple and classic.

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apple inc.

just a few hours ago i found out that i'll be working for apple inc. i couldn't be more excited.

apple and steve jobs have always been inspiring to me, especially as a business student studying marketing. mostly, i like their attitude.

“It’s more fun to be a pirate than to join the navy.”

-- mr. jobs

sports jacket:

sports jackets:
different from the blazer which has its roots in uniforms and sailing, the sports jacket has much more function in its origins. the sports jacket - originally in fabrics like tweeds and thicker wools - was more unstructured than the blazer and was often used by animal caretakers, hunting, and for work in the country. the jackets often had a small second pocket called a ticket pocket, and utilized elbow patches to reinforce the coat. now, a sports jacket is the perfect stand in for keeping warm when its chill or the sun's gone down, but still looking a little classy.

the rules for a suit coat apply to sports jackets (see here): pay special attention to find a shorter cut jacket, higher arm holes, and slimmer sleeves.

elbow patches were originally purely function. they still function to reinforce the jacket, but also look good.

i'm always a fan of a lighter colored tweed or herringbone jacket, as long as the cut is trim and the coat really hugs your shoulders well. fit is still critical, even if the coat is a thicker material. americans tend to wear their clothing one to two sizes too big; we utahns sometimes push three sizes too big in jackets. gq once suggested that to find the right jacket size, keep trying on smaller and smaller jackets - once you reach the point where you cannot button the jacket, move up one, maybe two sizes and you should be dead on.

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use caution - one does not simply walk into mordor:

here's a screen shot i took of walking directions from the shire to mordor. just had to share this....

the navy blazer:

I ascribe to the belief that a sports jacket or blazer is probably the most important staple in men's style, especially as a guy evolves from college student to young professional. i had an important interview for a job last week where they specifically asked the applicants to not wear suits. i wanted to look semi-casual, but sharp, so i rocked a blazer and it worked well. sports coats and blazers seem to have a manliness about them that empowers the wearer - they make any guy look sharp, especially if the jacket fits right

technically, a blazer is different than a sports jacket. blazers originate from the navy jackets worn as school uniforms and still take a lot of their styling from the collegiate world. most authentic blazers will have patch-pockets and silver or gold buttons, but the rules have become less clear lately. either way, below are two examples of how to own your own navy blazer.

every guy needs a rock-solid navy blazer. in my opinion, they are more versatile than sports jackets and look good on all guys, no matter his shape or frame. above is an example of how to wear the jacket more formally. do keep to the same rules as your suit jackets (see here), and do rock a pocket square and tie. if your jacket has brass buttons, keep your accessories more simple so that things don't get out of control. the pants should not match the jacket exactly - you don't need to run out and grab some pink pants, tan or gray chinos look great, as well as jeans.

informally, open up the collar or sport a t-shirt underneath with jeans. just remember that the coat needs to be trim and expertly fitted, so baggy extra-long pants won't look good. make sure the pants fit like your suit pants, narrow, tapered, and not too long. enjoy the blazer, it matches basically everything, and always makes the guy look better.

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local: pizza dough

this pizza i made: 4 ingredients

pizzeria 712:

classy, yet not ridiculously overpriced pizza. simple flavors, seasonal ingredients, and local artists' paintings on the wall. their moto:

"when you have the best and tastiest ingredients, you can cook very simply and the food will be extraordinary because it tastes like what it is"

most people don't know of pizzeria 712, and of the few people that do know of the orem-based pizza restaurant, even fewer know that they sell their pizza dough. the pizzeria boasts its ability to find incredible local flavors and incorporate them into their food - everything is fresh. they even make their own mozzarella cheese each morning. but the dough is just as incredible - it comes from a sourdough start using, of course, local flour from a mill in logan, utah. they cook their pizza in a wood burning oven at 712 degrees (get it?) using apple and cherry woods, and the end result is a solid pizza.

dough - $2

here's what i did: grabbed some pizza dough, $2, some fresh mozzarella, $4, good pizza sauce, fresh whole basil leaves (during the summer, i'll grow a little bush), and my wife. when i went to pick up the dough, they were just closing up for the afternoon before the dinner rush. since they weren't busy, the chef (pictured below) took me behind the counter and taught me how to pull the dough.

cool cook.

here's what you need:

dough - keep it cold until you use it, and don't wait more than an hour or two.

mozzarella cheese - fresh. normally i just pull off slabs, skip the grating

tomato sauce or just some slices of tomatoes - do not use pasta sauce. do not.

whole basil leaves - fresh

here's what you do:

turn your oven on as hot as it will go, 500 degrees is normally the max. we used a grill that i was able to get up to 700 degrees.

don't roll the dough if you can avoid it. put the dough onto your two closed fists (the fists should be together, almost like you're praying). slowly move your hands away from each other, keeping your fists closed - this should stretch the dough. continue to move your hands back to the center of the dough and pull them apart (maintaining your fists closed) stretching the dough into a circle. pull the dough until the center is so thin that you can nearly see light through it. set the dough on a pizza stone, or pan.

apply the sauce. note that as a pizza cooks, the sauce will move towards the center, so apply sparingly towards the center and generously towards the endges, it will even out as it cooks. also note that you don't need very much sauce. because the dough is thinner at the center, too much sauce will make it soupy.

next, add your cheese with the same rule as the sauce - a bit more around the edges. finally top the cheese with your basil leaves.

cook for about 7-11 minutes. the crust and the cheese should be browning. pull and cut while the pizza is hot. bon appetit

most important ingredient, my wife